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PostPosted: April 25, 2021, 5:09 pm 
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Location: Denver Co
So im sure you guys like me have several things that require switch or constant power. How did you guys do that? Im running mine to a terminal strip which i don't necessarily like. Ideas?

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PostPosted: April 25, 2021, 7:49 pm 
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Typically, I would feed a small fuse block and fuse each load individually. There are some inexpensive ones that use screw terminals. Others use 1/4" quick connect terminals. I prefer screw terminals over quick connect junctions myself.

The feed to the fuse blocks would be fused too. I don't like the idea of loads being powered through an ignition switch. so I generally use a 30A relay to feed the "switched" fuse block.

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PostPosted: April 25, 2021, 7:53 pm 
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Joined: July 7, 2011, 12:17 am
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Location: Sandy, OR
A long time ago in a galaxy far far away... 75 amp main relay to a buss bar mounted to the back of several aircraft circuit breakers feeding a few circuits and a couple of standard 30amp relays.


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PostPosted: April 26, 2021, 8:11 am 
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I plan out all the required connections then crimp two wires per terminal as needed for jumpering, eliminating the need for a term strip.

I start with a distribution stud with easy access that everything goes through. It can be a remote starter solenoid, starter mounted solenoid, or if those are not practical (like on an old dodge), make a 3/8 stud mounted to plastic block like uhmw. I've used thick uv stable plastic from a industrial blue food grade barrel. If you don't want to make one, you can buy an isolator stud for about $15.

Nice panel RTZ!

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PostPosted: April 26, 2021, 11:46 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I plan out all the required connections then crimp two wires per terminal as needed for jumpering, eliminating the need for a term strip.

I start with a distribution stud with easy access that everything goes through. It can be a remote starter solenoid, starter mounted solenoid, or if those are not practical (like on an old dodge), make a 3/8 stud mounted to plastic block like uhmw. I've used thick uv stable plastic from a industrial blue food grade barrel. If you don't want to make one, you can buy an isolator stud for about $15.

Nice panel RTZ!


And if you want a factory pre-made piece, 80's/90's mid/large chassis Audis used a terminal post just as MV8 describes. You'd want to look for cars with the battery mounted under the rear seat like the 5000's/100/200/UrS4/UrS6, the post is in the engine compartment.

And yes, nice panel RTZ!


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PostPosted: April 27, 2021, 7:55 am 
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I've been a fan of this family of fuse/relay panels: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46345/E ... Mini-Fuse/

They are largely weather proof and there are a few configurations to choose from with or without a busbar to power the fuses.

You can either run the power directly off of the battery if you need it to remain always powered or use the same 75A main relay as RTz and tie it to the ignition switch.

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PostPosted: April 27, 2021, 8:07 am 
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That is a nice panel. I guess there is probably a label to fill out inside the cover for each position.

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PostPosted: April 27, 2021, 8:14 am 
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Yeah i have been eyeballing that relay box. The larger box has a 95 day lead time.... but everything is on backorder these days

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PostPosted: April 27, 2021, 9:16 am 
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Location: Sandy, OR
mjalaly wrote:
.... but everything is on backorder these days


You might look into Leash Electronics Pro-Street board. They are very compact and easy to wire. I used one in my last project and liked it enough that I picked up one to put in my 7. The board includes turn signals and hazard flashers as well. Speedway shows them to be in stock currently.


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PostPosted: April 27, 2021, 3:07 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I guess there is probably a label to fill out inside the cover for each position.


I don't recall mine coming with labels but there is plenty of space to do so.

I thought I'd be slick and use permanent marker on the sheet metal next to the box. Worked fine until enough oil and other petroleum based products eventually took the markings off. :BH:

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