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Working on my MGB-GT, I found the donor engine, a 95 Camaro V6, had a couple of connectors where the insulation of the wires was missing at their connectors. In order to fix, it would typically require disassembling the connector, removing the crimped pins, buying replacements, crimping and reassembling the connector. In the end, the wires would be a bit shorter. This would be more of a problem if there were multiple wires in the connector housing but only a few had missing insulation. I have in my collection of solutions, a bottle of GB liquid insulation. It is a thick liquid, almost between rubber cement and toothpaste, that gets brushed onto the bare wires and becomes an insulation when it dries. a few coats are recommended. it is rubber based and is good to 200 deg F. The finished product has some flexibility, acting like a stress relief.

It might be something you could use.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I also used something similar (Plasti Dip in the dip can) on some of my wiring splices to help seal the connection. After 6 years I had to open a few up and they looked new.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

Nice find. It's probably superior to tape in that I would expect it to seal out moisture/air far better.

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Peace, Ron

Yep, I've used liquid tape for years, great stuff.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

We called it RTV ('Room Temperature Vulcanizer'? obviously a different supplier) and used it for potting connecters on ocean-going ship trials equipment and some oceanographic electronics as well. It works!

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

One must be careful when using any RTV with wiring or electronics. Some formulas of RTV creates acetic acid when it cures. This formula is not compatible with electronics. The other kinds of RTV, the ones with no smell, use a different curing agent, do not create acetic acid and are perfectly fine.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I have a bottle of this stuff but haven't used it yet. I may try it nest time after this review.

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Build on

Chris
Build: NA Miata based +221 Se7en

Put a bottle in my Amazon cart, will come with my next order. I will add it to my electrictrickery tub, I am sure it will cone in useful.

Graham

I used it back in the day when installing X-ray equipment. We supplied the equipment with 480V, 3 phase- 200amp service. The wire size was "OO", about twice the size of heavy-duty jumper cables. I would coat the wires where they entered the terminal strip and had a bit of bare wire sometimes showing in a really tight space. Did not want to accidently have someone brush up against the bare wire when troubleshooting the system.

Also, where we had to add a coupler inline in a pull box I would wrap it in a rubberized electrical tape and then cover the tape with the liquid. If you have never used the rubberized electrical tape- it is really cool stuff. It is stretched as you wind it around the connection. It sticks much more securely than the standard electrical tape. But it is a bitch to remove and does leave a black rubber residue on everything it touches.

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Thom