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PostPosted: September 11, 2022, 12:06 pm 
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just one question, although the toe in bump and droop does not change 1/8" in, is the track width changing answer yes, is this a cause of my problem?

'

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PostPosted: September 11, 2022, 12:33 pm 
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You may also consider taking it to an alignment shop for a second opinion, telling them nothing other than "can you please help align this", and see what they find.

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PostPosted: September 11, 2022, 12:51 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
You may also consider taking it to an alignment shop for a second opinion, telling them nothing other than "can you please help align this", and see what they find.


^This. Or just tell them to give you the report, not to change anything.

Cars with independent suspensions have track change. Unless you've done something unconventional I doubt that's the issue. And that brings us back to 'it was fine before'.

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PostPosted: September 15, 2022, 1:34 pm 
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well i re did the front.

first i had to make something that would allow the wheels to move sideways without resistance, that accomplished i wanted repeat data and checked every setting three times and back checked after other adjustments, if i set the camber then the caster, i went back and checked the camber again to verify.
both sides are camber 2 degrees, castor 10 degrees, toe 1/16" tow in and bump steer was 3/16" in at 2" of droop and 1/18" in at 2" of bump.

the steering is improved as is self centering as expected with the castor of 10 degrees.

i examined every ball joint and heim joint for any play or stiffness and found none.

drove the car no change in directional stability just goes where it wants to without warning, i am now confident it is not the front.

when driving the car it will change direction and hold that course until it decides to change direction again unless i input on the wheel, say it twitches to the right, it will hold a straight line in that direction until it twitches again, it may twitch right and hold that line or left and hold that line.

it does not feel like it is turning left or right as once it twitches it holds that course, it does not continue to turn in the direction it twitched, it will hold, how can i describe it, if it twitches 5 degrees off course it will stay straight on that 5 degree course until it twitches again or i correct it to straight.

this leads me to believe that as said before, that something is loose or moving, there is a very small amount of play in the drivers side rear wheel bearing but do not think this is sufficient to cause the twitching, i have checked all the joints at the rear replacing as necessary, they are all good, the rear control arms have no cracks and i have removed the rear sway bar.

it does not appear to change direction with the throttle or under braking.

i wish i could watch the car from the rear when driving but i can't be in two places at once.

i will re check the alignment at the rear, what else can i do.

i will go out in the shop and swap the tires from front to back now.

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PostPosted: September 15, 2022, 5:33 pm 
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john hennessy wrote:
... i wish i could watch the car from the rear when driving but i can't be in two places at once...

If you have a GoPro or equivalent, you can!

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PostPosted: September 16, 2022, 5:23 pm 
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so i took the back wheels off to swap with the front, also made a very slight adjustment to the rear toe and the camber on the drivers side, change the wheels and lowered the car.

just to verify, i jumped up and down on the rear to settle the suspension and noticed that the right front was lifting up as the left rear was going down but the right rear also seemed like it was not moving at all.

i removed the wheels and looked at the coil overs, counting the threads on the spring perch, they were the same within half a turn, then i turned my attention to the damper adjustment finding the right rear was at maximum and the left rear was at minimum, i adjusted them to position 2 out of 10 the same as the front.

test drive no twitching problem solved, what can i say, i'm not in the habit of bouncing on the rear of my car and apart from the twitching, there were no signs of a ride problem.

what do you think of that?

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PostPosted: September 16, 2022, 8:08 pm 
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As Carroll Smith has said, “A dead shock is surprisingly difficult for the driver to identify or isolate”.

In your case I suspect two vastly different shocks could fall into a similar ‘category’.

Great you got it fixed and thanks for letting us know.

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PostPosted: September 16, 2022, 9:06 pm 
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john hennessy wrote:
what do you think of that?
Love it! Persistence paid off! Good on you and thanks a bunch for sharing the solution :cheers:

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PostPosted: September 16, 2022, 9:14 pm 
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Well done. Your stick-to-it determination paid off. Now look at all the things you know are in top shape. :cheers:

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PostPosted: September 16, 2022, 10:20 pm 
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Great, John. Happy the twitchyness is resolved. :yay:

But two items were changed: Shock adjustment and the wheel/tire fore-and-aft swap (not to mention the other minor tweaks.) Just to confirm that the shocks were the only culprits, you might consider reversing the wheel swap and testing again.

Or perhaps leave well-enough alone. :cheers:

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PostPosted: September 16, 2022, 10:51 pm 
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Agree on changing only one thing at a time. Regarding the shock valving, how did that happen and when?

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PostPosted: September 18, 2022, 4:24 pm 
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don't know how it happened, i guess it was me having one of my "moments"

i have returned the wheels/tires to their original position to see if it comes back.

now i must look at the quick release steering wheel hub as there is a lot of play in it, it's the hexagon type and are known to wear, it is probably a throw away, i will get a new one.

no chance of another test drive yet, i will keep you posted.

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PostPosted: September 19, 2022, 8:53 pm 
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A thumb screw through the side of the wheel hub can take the slop out of the engagement. Just need to back it off a little to remove the wheel.

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PostPosted: November 1, 2022, 12:45 am 
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john hennessy wrote:
don't know how it happened, i guess it was me having one of my "moments"

i have returned the wheels/tires to their original position to see if it comes back.

now i must look at the quick release steering wheel hub as there is a lot of play in it, it's the hexagon type and are known to wear, it is probably a throw away, i will get a new one.

no chance of another test drive yet, i will keep you posted.


I once pulled a head off my daily driver because I did a seasonal adjustment (Canadian Prairies, so major adjustment) on a pair of SU's- but... I switched hands and leaned one several flats and richened the other. Because the car had been overheated a couple weeks before, I saw the ghost white plugs on two cyl as a headgasket failure.

Point of the story is, when tired, "duplicating" a re-set from one side to the other- especially if you've had to roll the creeper over, re-situate yourself *and* change hands...is almost inevitably going to end up exactly wrong.


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