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PostPosted: April 4, 2019, 12:43 pm 
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Joined: December 6, 2017, 2:20 pm
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Location: San Jose, California
Hi Guys,

After seeing and researching, it seems to be a problem for me. The miata parking brake bracket seems to hit the frame. I couldn't find any clean solutions. Are there compatible calipers that avoid this problem or have people re-fabricated the parking bracket to avoid the frame. Even avoiding the frame, it seems that the angle of the cable is not angled well, meaning id probably make a hole in the body panel to route the cable into the car?

Ya guys got any clean ideas or suggestions?


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PostPosted: April 4, 2019, 1:16 pm 
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I think the Miata uprights are symmetrical, suspension geometry wise. Swap the left and right uprights may be one option. My RX7 calipers had a similar interference issue. They were not symmetrical. Unfortunately I had already made my control arms and didn't want to do what I am suggesting you check out. What I did was complicated. It involved reworking the cable bracket at the wheel and swapping of caliper internal parts, but it worked. I would not suggest doing what I did.

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PostPosted: April 4, 2019, 3:24 pm 
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From what I can see, the frame tubes are too close to the spindle front and rear. I can see why you'd want to maximize passenger space but I don't know why it is so close behind the wheel. Not enough information. I suggest several pictures from different angles that show a lot more of the area.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
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Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
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PostPosted: April 4, 2019, 4:29 pm 
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Joined: December 6, 2017, 2:20 pm
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Location: San Jose, California
I dont think the uprights are symmetrical. You can see the attached photo. It would mean I would have to adjust my shock mount point and upper control arm mounts points which I have already welded in. :(

I was following the Vodou plans and did not see that I would run into this issue. I will try to post some additional photos of the issue.


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PostPosted: April 4, 2019, 5:09 pm 
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I think you have the calipers on the wrong side. Cable should pull downward. Bleeder should be on top.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 4, 2019, 5:28 pm 
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Posts: 125
Location: San Jose, California
Oh shoot. Let me check again. I swapped it before, and it looked like it had a similar problem.


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PostPosted: April 4, 2019, 6:53 pm 
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I guess you are right. How about swapping upper control arms together with the uprights. I am unfamiliar with te voodoo plans so don't know how the UCA is made. I'm just spit balling here. If it doesn't apply, then ignore it. These were some of my considerations at the time.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: April 5, 2019, 7:24 am 
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Can you rotate the caliper lever that the cable attaches to, or just cut the lever and weld it in a new position. Davew


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PostPosted: April 5, 2019, 2:38 pm 
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Hi Guys,

I think I found an elegant solution.

The caliper was swapped, and now i routed it better. There is actually some frame clearance.I think If I shorten the parking bracket or bend it, I can clear the frame better. I think I am more include to shortening it.

I found that the part number on ebay, for 5 bucks. I can just remove about 3/4 inch from it, clamp it down to this part, and weld it back together. The only problem I can see is that its coated with a yellow coating. I am guessing thats a zinc oxide? Also with the thickness of it, I dont think my 120V mig welder can do it well. So I probably will have to take it to someone to make sure the weld is strong on it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Miatamecca-Use ... 2749.l2649


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PostPosted: April 5, 2019, 3:39 pm 
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No welding or replacement required. I assume you have a 4.5 inch angle grinder. Remove the brkt, clamp the base in a vice, then grind the slot closer to the base, just wide enough to move the cable end closer to the base. You don't have to cut off the excess.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 5, 2019, 4:07 pm 
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Joined: December 6, 2017, 2:20 pm
Posts: 125
Location: San Jose, California
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
No welding or replacement required. I assume you have a 4.5 inch angle grinder. Remove the brkt, clamp the base in a vice, then grind the slot closer to the base, just wide enough to move the cable end closer to the base. You don't have to cut off the excess.



Oooo snap!!! THats a much better idea!! Thanks a lot dude.


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