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Ok guys,I hope you can help me out.I have a Stalker XL with an LS3 in it. The steering effort seems very high even though I have power steering. I have read reducing positive caster will help this. My question is to reduce caster do I bring the upper control arms further forward by swapping the spacers front to rear or do I bring the lowers back toward rear? I have 3 degrees positive now and would like to drop it to maybe 1.5 positive. Thanks Rich

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MK Indy R1
SuperFormance S1
SOLD: Brunton Super Stalker
SOLD: Locost-Turbo 280HP
SOLD: Locost CBR1000 powered autocrosser
SOLD: Locost R1 powered

You could adjust the spacers and physically move either (or both) the lower control arm back, or the upper control arm forward.

You could also (or alternatively) lengthen the rear rod end of the upper arm or the forward rod end of the lower arm.

You could possibly shorten the forward rod end of the upper arm, or the rearward rod end of the lower arm - but it doesn't look like you have a lot of adjustment in there.

If I had to choose, I'd thread the rod ends to move the control arms appropriately. You'll need an alignment afterward.

BUT....

Are you sure it's a caster issue? 3° is not much.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

Perhaps its a scrub radius issue. A negative scrub radius gives a harder feel to the steering wheel as it requires more input to turn.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Is your power steering pump putting out the pressure that the rack requires? Seems like even with too much castor and too much scrub, power steering should make it steer easily.

I think Sean might be right. Even with high caster and you don't have a crazy amount with such a light car I think the stock power steering would not even notice. So I would start there. I run 2.5 degrees with a non power rack and the steering is perfect. You have a big V8 lump but with power steering it should not be an issue.

Graham

I ran ~7 deg caster (zero scrub) and had no issues steering with no power steering and a depowered rack and . As a matter of fact, I started with ~5 deg and had no steering return. I think you have a problem with 1) binding in the steering system, 2) your power steering system not functioning, 4) scrub radius, or 5)poor Ackerman. Before you start redesigning, You might want lift the front end, start the car and see what the unloaded steering affect is. Then try again with the PS belt off.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I had about 3° originally, but had zero steering self-centering.

I changed it to 7°, still with no power steering, and it is perfectly fine to steer. I can even grab the road wheel and push (steer) it left or right while it's on the ground.

With 10" wide slicks however, it's a bugger to steer when parked, but perfectly fine once moving.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

How speed dependent is the excessive steering effort?

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

The car has a Coleman electric rack rack in it. I have not gotten the wheels off the ground and tried the rack to check for any binding,maybe I will do that tomorrow. The funny thing is it seems to be hard to turn just about all the time-very weird. I have had three other Locosts, all less than 1000 lbs with no power steering and no issues. Now I have an 1800 lb. car with power steering and it seems very hard to turn to me-maybe the covid and not going to the gym has made me weak!!

_________________
MK Indy R1
SuperFormance S1
SOLD: Brunton Super Stalker
SOLD: Locost-Turbo 280HP
SOLD: Locost CBR1000 powered autocrosser
SOLD: Locost R1 powered

Btw,it does seems to be working as when the car is off and I try to turn the wheel it is much harder to move,like any other car with power steering.

_________________
MK Indy R1
SuperFormance S1
SOLD: Brunton Super Stalker
SOLD: Locost-Turbo 280HP
SOLD: Locost CBR1000 powered autocrosser
SOLD: Locost R1 powered

Silly question - did you try unplugging the rack to see if it is actually getting any power assist

Rich,
I don't believe that Coleman makes an EPS, just R&Ps with/or without hydraulic assist. I'd check with Stalker to get troubleshooting help, or at least their forum. Look closely at the case or control box for mfgr logo. It could be that someone added an aftermarket unit such as those used on ATVs.

https://stalkercars.forumotion.com

Ron

If you believe is working, even if just a little bit, with the car running as compared to when the car is off, then try to find the control box. Perhaps there is an adjustment for how much assist the EPS provides. I know some early DIY EPS conversions used a control box from some guy in South America that had that adjustment capability.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

It looks to be a Uni-Steer unit. I need to figure out what model it is as they make a 170w,220w and 360w motor for them. If it is one of the lower watyage models I think I can swap it out for a larger model and add a variable potentiometer (made by them) to adjust it down to achieve my desired assist. Thanks everyone for steering (pun) me in the right direction. I will update my findings and results. Thanks Rich

_________________
MK Indy R1
SuperFormance S1
SOLD: Brunton Super Stalker
SOLD: Locost-Turbo 280HP
SOLD: Locost CBR1000 powered autocrosser
SOLD: Locost R1 powered