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 Post subject: Rod End Double Adjuster?
PostPosted: January 31, 2022, 4:58 pm 
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Location: Buda, Tx
I like the concept of these for the inboard end of a control arm but I haven't noticed them in use, though I don't get out much...

They seem practical, but are they safe?

https://www.splparts.com/products/regular-double-adjuster.html


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PostPosted: January 31, 2022, 5:33 pm 
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Looks more than adequate but it adds up considering the special, large, left hand tap, left hand jamb nut, and the separate pinch clamps for the slotted end. Tubing will be larger than normal too and thick walled, at least for the threaded section. There are other ways to make a joint adjustable without separation.

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PostPosted: January 31, 2022, 6:48 pm 
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I've seen a few clever methods, but I haven't seen one where the rear tube is in-line (coaxial) with the adjuster.


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PostPosted: January 31, 2022, 8:55 pm 
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Assuming a typical rod end on both ends, why not use the LH and RH rode ends? Maybe I'm missing something.

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PostPosted: January 31, 2022, 9:30 pm 
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This is on the Rotus I recently bought, the lower front portion of the frame is bent to the left just a bit causing negative camber on left, positive camper on right. Existing design has no means of adjustment (shown in gold in assembly pic below). Originally I planned to simply thread the rod end into the arm, but a fabricator I spoke with suggested the SPL double adjuster.

Down the road I'll look into getting the frame straightened, but I need to assess the drivetrain situation first, so this will get things a lot closer to where they should be. Plus, all that freedom of motion available with the double adjuster is appealing.

I prefer the design shown in the pic I stole from another thread, but I can't figure how to package that at the rear rod end.


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PostPosted: January 31, 2022, 9:30 pm 
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I think he is referring to a UBJ adjuster.

Here is a more common way to do it. Also called a sleeve nut.

The least amount of work would be to straighten the frame with a body jack, heat, cut and weld, etc.


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_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: February 1, 2022, 11:30 am 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Ahh thanks.


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Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: February 1, 2022, 1:10 pm 
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Hayduke, You could just directly thread without separate adjusters. No need for easier adjustment.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: February 1, 2022, 6:25 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Hayduke, You could just directly thread without separate adjusters. No need for easier adjustment.

That was my original plan, the fabricator steered me towards these. Considering how often these need adjusting it doesn't make a lot of sense. I'll probably do it the most complicated way... :?

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I think he is referring to a UBJ adjuster.

I was actually referring to the upper inner, but the UBJ looks similar.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Here is a more common way to do it. Also called a sleeve nut.

Below is a pic of how I see the internals of the adjusters in the pic, and I think it matches your sketch, with the red box on yours being the green on mine, and holes thru the tube instead of hex. I just have no idea how thin the tube walls can be, from what I've seen online, thinner than I thought.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
The least amount of work would be to straighten the frame with a body jack, heat, cut and weld, etc.

I'm sure you're right, I'd thought getting new arms built would be quicker and the adjustability would be a benefit both before and after the frame is sorted.

I'd like to learn more about 'traditional design techniques' but there are some many rabbit holes on the internet, I pester you guys. And I appreciate the feedback.


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PostPosted: February 1, 2022, 8:03 pm 
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No, it isn’t pestering at all. It’s quite slow this time of year anyway.

For the sleeve nut, find the drill size for the tap needed for 50% thread, then using a tube chart, find a tube and wall with an ID slightly smaller than the drill size and an OD at least 0.250 larger than the major/od of the rod end thread. Some sizes are common and easier to find.

Then find a tube with an ID and 0.83 wall or thicker with an ID close to that of the sleeve nut OD. May need to turn the sleeve nut a little or hone the larger tube for best fit.

For safe adjustment, the rod end should have as long of a shank as you can find or use female rod ends with threaded grade 8 rod the necessary length with an extra jamb nut and thread locker. Adjustment of the assembly should not reduce thread engagement in the female rod end.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: February 9, 2022, 3:32 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2006, 3:09 pm
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Location: Holly, MI
Attachment:
Screenshot 2022-02-09 142619.png


I have been using the sleeve nut style on some custom lower control arms I built. I got the parts from Ron Sutton Race Technology. They sell a complete kit of parts to make a control arm. I am getting ready to order some more to build a couple more control arms.


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