LocostUSA.com

I used an MGB steering rack. Note that later models have a slower ratio.
I narrowed mine by 4" since my frame is book size. Should work unmodified on a 442 frame.
I recommend to check for bump steer before finalizing the rack mounting location.

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book 4AGE build, Supra W58 transmission, Corolla GTS live axle

FYI here's a good set of pictures and a bit of info on setting up your racks and eliminating bump steer.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ctrp- ... explained/

The image I posted below shows how you can have longer or shorter rack depending on where the outer tie rod ball joint center is. So if you have a good idea where your inner ball joints are located on your inner tie rods you can sorta figure out if your OEM steering rack will work or not with adjusting your steering arm location to be more outboard if possible.

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My build -> viewtopic.php?t=15585

I have a rack made by Sweet from a race car (adjustable ratio).

https://sweetmanufacturing.com/

Also look at what is available from UTVs.
There are some new parts becoming available as those vehicles age out.

The Dwarf and Legends guys are using up our OEM available inventory fast!
Stilletto or BRP produce aftermarket units used in dwarf and legends cars.

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Honey anyone?

Here's a picture of something I'm working on. The spindles I did not design, those are just Mustang II spindles. The uppers are a modified variation of Jack's control arms, and the lower control arms are pretty much from scratch. I would much have prefered to have used Miata spindles, but I was limited with what was available at the time.

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"Most restaurants these days are as noisy as a drum-and-cymbal factory invaded by two hundred chimpanzees intent on committing percussion."

Dean Koontz

Since you're using mustang II spindles I can let you know right now. Basically all balljoint models I found online for k722 are incorrect. I also have solidworks if you want me to email you a copy of a balljoint assembly with the proper dimensions. I just bought a k772 balljoint today to tear apart for dimensions.

Also I'm curious, what upper balljoint are you using, and would you mind showing different angles?

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My build -> viewtopic.php?t=15585

I already have the ball joints purchased and on the spindles. I'll update this message in a bit with pictures, showing the two ball joints I have.

My biggest beefs are a) obscenely oversized for 80% of the builds, and b) after multiple trips to Summit Racing, O'Reilly's and a few other places, the upper and lower ball joints I found are different, i.e. 1-1/8x18 on the bottom, and M22x1.5 on the top. Blah.

I had to find taps and drills to mount these, and surprisingly, it was not that hard to find. I've been machining for about 10 years now, and I've never seen 1-1/8x18 before. That's an ultrafine thread. It wasn't hard to do--I spent more time drilling into the 1-1/2 hex bar I am using to house the lower rod end. Tapping, I stuck it in the tailstock, set the lathe on low, attached a crescent wrench, and turned it on. Threaded like butter, to consider it was a cheap Chinese tap. I now have the housings and jamnuts to go with them. I should probably make another build for this car, as there are going to be more "new" ideas and things to go with it.

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"Most restaurants these days are as noisy as a drum-and-cymbal factory invaded by two hundred chimpanzees intent on committing percussion."

Dean Koontz

It's not the ball joints that are oversized, it's the Mustang spindles that are grossly overdone.

You are building a nimble Locost not an overweight MuscleCar!

Here is a proper modern upright for a Locost
http://www.proracecars.com/product/PROALSPINLT
Lighter weight and better geometry
They also sell raw spindle shafts so you can fab your own upright

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Honey anyone?

What kind of brakes fit on these spindles? Also have you seen any 5x4.5 (5x114.3) hubs for them?

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My build -> viewtopic.php?t=15585

Yes, I'm aware of the overweight factor. My first 7 weighs in pretty heavy at ~1600lbs, using a Miata as the donor car. I suspect this one will outweigh that one. A buddy and I picked this up, along with a franken-Atom frame, for a song a few months ago. I'll have to start another build log on this one, but it's roughly 60-70% complete. Body and panels are already done, rear end was already installed (Mark VIII) and the original owner (deceased, from what I was told) was trying to use an eBay Mustang II front end kit to do the front suspension, from the look of it. I was going to try to use whatever they had, thus buying new Mustang II spindles, but ended up having to scrap all the front suspension parts they had, as they were garbage.

The entire car was made out of 1.5" tubing, with welded plate all over the place. Looks more like it was built to survive the apocolypse, more than being light. I suspect it already weighs in around 1200 minimum without suspension or power train. It came with a CX650 engine mounted in place, but I'm not sure what their plan was with a wheezy 60-something hp motor with the amount of weight. Coasting, maybe. I bought a Suzuki Bandit 1200, and after a little tweaking, dynoed it at 114whp, which should be around 140hp crank. Not a lot, but it'll be ok.

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"Most restaurants these days are as noisy as a drum-and-cymbal factory invaded by two hundred chimpanzees intent on committing percussion."

Dean Koontz

I have mustang drop spindles but I am leaning towards some 120 series Volvo stuff, if I can find a lighter caliper to use on them.

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Honey anyone?

Probably Wilwood Dynalites? Any properly sized 4 piston (fixed mounting) caliper and a bracket to adapt.

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Honey anyone?

Ouchie!

The mfgr of those spindles says they are not suitable for pavement they were designed for dirt.

I mis-guesstimated the finished weight of the donor also, even though they accept a Toyota or Chevette hub.

Those would be suitable for a cyclecar, as they are less than half the weight of a Locost.

I am surprised at the weights guys are ending up with on a Locost, I've been playing with cars that are much lighter, I need to adjust my measuring stick.
I've been thinking that some of the goodies I have gathered are too heavy, but maybe not.
But the essence of a Locost is light weight

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Honey anyone?

If you dig up my old build, you can see what I put in mine
I did not go crazy on anything; I used the Miata rear subframe, which might have saved me 20lbs if I hadn't, maybe. The steel wheels add another 30 maybe. I suspect the turbo setup added another 40-50lbs. I expect to have maybe 1600lbs overall. That's using 14ga tubing and sheet steel for plate. For a bike engine, you can probably try something lighter, but I wouldn't go much lighter. There are plenty of areas where you can save weight, but they typically either cost a lot more, or sacrifice comfort/functuonality.

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"Most restaurants these days are as noisy as a drum-and-cymbal factory invaded by two hundred chimpanzees intent on committing percussion."

Dean Koontz

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1glxrsh ... sp=sharing

That is a video of it on Solidworks.

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"Most restaurants these days are as noisy as a drum-and-cymbal factory invaded by two hundred chimpanzees intent on committing percussion."

Dean Koontz