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I have just been to see an 89 Toyota Supra, which has had the engine removed (Not really a problem as I have an S2000 motor in the garage). I wonder if anyone has used the Supra as a donor and if it would be a good choice. The main reason for me wanting to buy it is the LSD, it also has the same bolt pattern as my Mazda Rx8 so I will be able to change 3 sets of wheels between the 2 cars (I already have 2 sets with street and race tires).
The car has the steering rack, brakes suspension, pedals, all the interior appears to be there but it is a little beat up and the exterior seems to be in good shape so I should be able to make some money back there. The Engine, drive-shaft, exhaust, battery etc are missing.

The price is $800 Deal or no deal?

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

It might just be my perception, but you seem to be jumping all over the place in looking for a donor. I think it might help to take a step back and focus on exactly what you want from a donor, and why. It's easy to get pulled off into different directions if you don't have a firm plan and strong focus.

Based on your build thread it looks like you're looking to build this car as something to learn on and with, and considering a MKII version for your final competition-oriented build. Your "use goals" were some track days, and I'll guess a few trips around the local auto cross courses. You don't mention plans to use it on the street, but if that's part of the plan, that use should also be considered.

Given those parameters, I'd probably steer you towards finding a donor that starts with double wishbones up front. For the rear end, I prefer IRS, but for track and autocross use, a live axle might be just as effective. Once you have decided on those parameters, then you can start narrowing down the donor list (or planning which parts will be non-donor) based on what you will actually be using. You already have an engine and gearbox that are not from a donor, so your ECU, wiring, dash system and and engine support systems will need to be sourced to be compatible with that. Essentially, You already have an "engine donor" and you're looking to add a "suspension donor" to the project.

It might be easier to just buy specific suspension components and/or driveline systems to meet specific needs. You might want to consider going the t-bird route for your steering(?), uprights (all 4), drive axles and differential. It's been done before, is well documented, and the parts are affordable and available. You should also be able to find quite a bit of support on here with any questions you have about using those bits. You can bridge the gap between your Honda transmission and the Ford differential with a custom drive shaft. There is also lots of support for those Ford components in the aftermarket and racing communities. An alternative would be to source those same suspension components from a Miata, but if you are eventually thinking of lots of power and really large brakes, the Ford components may well be a better place to start.

I don't know Supras well enough to be much help. I do know that if it's not a double a-arm front suspension, you are probably complicating your front suspension design. Try to identify and focus on the larger needs, and not get pulled into "right now" or "single feature" thinking.

Above all, develop a good plan, stick to it, and be patient.

(eeedited foir speeelingk!)

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.. in the world

Find a tbird, like erioshi suggested. Plenty have been used in builds, parts are common. The Supra has a trailing arm rear suspension that would be a pain to adapt. I believe the trailing arm and rear upright is one unit, not easily separated. There was one guy on here trying to use one and I haven't seen any thing new from him in months...

The main thing pushing me towards that car is the LSD, I have tried to buy two NB miata with the Torsen LSD but both deals have fallen through. So I started looking for other cars with an LSD the Short list was Nissan 240sx or 300zx, Toyota Supra, BMW 318IS. Honestly I have not looked at American cars, the build quality is typically much lower than Japanese which put me off despite the cost.

One thing I don't like about the Supra is it is very wide with my current race wheels I would have a 4" gap to the frame on both sides.

My goals are to make it track ready this year, or maybe just running. Then make it road legal in the future.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

If I was to do this over again, I'd look for a Miata.

The Miata - Locost has been done a bunch, and there is a good supply of plans, parts, advice, etc. And I hear that many have used the factory EFI and never looked back. There are Haynes plans modified for Miata bits. If you don't want to build the frame, you can call Westfield / Flyin' Miata. Jack's suspension bits are made w/ the Miata in mind. And on and on.

Up north there weren't too many to choose from -- either they were high mileage or complete rust buckets, maybe both. Or they were somebody's baby, and those never seemed to be lightly wrecked and up for salvage. However, I'm seeing a lot more potential donors here in the south.

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

I don't think build quality should stop you from looking at american cars as the parts you will be using such as the diff, and uprights in general don't seem to have this problem and carry a heavier load. I may be wrong but you don't here of uprights braking on any car these days, just a thought. Of course We all (that means Me first) have some prejudice or preference as far as makes goes but build quality seems to be a very fluid thing now a days with parts coming from all over the world.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

I agree that when it comes to domestic Ford products, the differential, uprights, drive axles, etc. are not the areas typically associated with quality problems. And if I'm remembering correctly, the t-bird can interchange quite a bit of the front end hardware with certain variants of the mustang, and even some pure racing applications.

The t-bird IRS can be found with an aluminum housing (8.8"?) and a limited slip can be added if your chosen donor doesn't come with one. Also using the Ford 8.8 opens up a wide range of gear ratios that can be installed into that differential.

All of that said, the main reason I recommended the t-bid set-up over a Miata based donor is the brakes. With a t-bird you can upgrade into Mustang based brakes - big brakes for a big, heavy car. With a Miata, you're pretty much stuck with OE Miata brakes in back and one or two expensive big brake kit choices for the front. I don't know if you've spent much time in the pits talking with spec Miata guys, but quite a few of them complain about the brakes.

While you would be working with less mass than a stock Miata, velocity can become a much bigger factor in brake performance than mass at a very rapid rate. Probably not too much of an issue at autocross speeds for single laps, but on a big track with repeated lapping and hard braking, it's not hard to overcome the mass available in a braking system with heat and cook the whole mess 'till it stops working. The Ford system will offer much more initial mass and surface area to both soak and dissipate that heat. And there are lots of racing specific brake parts available for the Ford parts at very reasonable (for racing) prices.

At stock power with your chosen S2000 engine you may already be past what the Miata brakes can manage over the length of a full lapping session. I've been in a turbo Miata with well developed street brakes (but running racing pads), and that car (with about 240 whp) was running into significant brake fade on lap 3 at our local track. Big power requires big brakes .. squared.

For the record, I've always found running out of power to be far less dramatic than running out of brakes...

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.. in the world

Thank you for all of your input you are obviously very knowledgeable about this type of thing. I think I am going to go with the Supra at the moment. With the price being $800 and the body is in good shape I think I can just about break even and get a free suspension/brake/steering/wheel setup. If it turns out to not be worth the hassle I can sell the wheels/rear end and turn a profit.
I looked at the front suspension at it is double wish bone, also it is the turbo version of the Supra so the brakes are built for a car with 230 HP. I will not be able to get 13" wheel like I wanted but I have a set of 17" wheels that weigh ~16lb and already have race tires so that will save some cash. That will also help with longer gearing for autocross.

My main goal for the car is autocross, the MKII model would be if I wanted to become Nationally competitive. I would have to get there and see what my car lacks and what everyone else is doing to make their cars fast then build a car to beat them. I think that is not a realistic goal at the moment. I will trailer the car to the track initially but once it is running I will start to tune and optimize it to make it fast, then make it road legal. Weight is not going to be an issue as the F22C puts me in E-Mod with and 1800lb minimum weight. I might even add a stereo at that point.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Keep us posted! I googled up the suspension and it does look to be double wishbone up front and multi-link in back. You'll definitely be starting with decent brakes.

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.. in the world

Here she is, the car looks to be in very good shape. The seller kissed the car when it was on the trailer which is good to see. It looks like he really took care of it. He actually bought a donor car to make this one the best he could, so he gave me a load of extra parts like a spare steering column, spare uprights, a whole box of parts, and extra spoiler etc etc etc. I am very happy especially as the wheels fit my Rx8 so I have 3 sets of wheels that will fit both cars and one set already has race rubber.
I also measure the wheel gap at the back and with the wheels on it there will be a 2" gap either side my race tires will probably drop that gap to about an inch so it looks perfect. I am not going to use the rear sub-frame but I would like to replicate it where possible

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... =1&theater

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558