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Here a photo of my brace,[ as it would be located if the top was in place ] and how it attaches to a 3rd brake lite. You have a nice roll bar cross tube that would work for your attachment. My Tee brace is just a small aluminum tube with a hole that the center for the support tube to slips into. The top has a loop sewn into it where the aluminum tube passes thru. The support tube has one end threaded which allows you to increase the tension on the top. If you did not want a loop in the top you could add a 3rd brace and turn buckle which could attach to the roll bar to complete the triangle. That design would pull rearward Vs forward to increase tension. I do no know how the rear of your top attaches, but I can adjust my top side to side to keep the top and the brace level. DaveW

Don’t forget about sail battens. Theyre inexpensive, flat, flexible, strong and built for the job of stiffening a sail that would otherwise flap. You could consider building them into a top, bikini or otherwise.

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

Impressive, but a bit more elaborate than what I envisioned.

That's an idea with possibilities....I wonder where I can source fiberglass profiles suitable to fabricate some battens?

Steveston Marine and Hardware, 3560 Moncton Street. They're not expensive.

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

The Tee brace could easily be made as one solid assembly. Then adjust the tension with a turn buckle attached between the Tee and the roll bar. My first thought when designing it with so many parts, was to be able to store all the parts in the trunk and if a started to rain, I could assemble the top. But once I installed the top, and it makes driving so much more comfortable, it is now on 95% of the time. I believe you are dealing with a lot higher winds on the road vs the water. This set-up is good for 100+MPH. DaveW

How do you gain access when your top is in place. With mine, the process is as follows:

1- Get in the car
2-While standing, affix the top to the windscreen
3-Sit
4- Reach back and fold the top over the roll bar and affix the shock-cords to their respective anchors

There's no way I could get my big-butt into the cockpit with the top in place.

I run Hankooks on my Birkin and use 17F/19R. 2psi less cold for the track.

Trog
You are a lot more nimble then me, if you reach behind to attach the top while in the your seat. The top of my roll bar is probably higher. It almost 41" off the ground. My windshield is also 1 inch higher then book, So I can easily squeeze in with the top on. I first tried elastic cords to hold the top, but they would loosen up once I hit 50+ MPH. I extended the rear window bottom attachment brackets in each corner and then added turn buckles. You can get the top really tight with turn buckles, and they do not loosen up while on the road. DaveW

Impressive strucure.....but I think I'll stick with my loosy-goosy. wind powered parachuite style bikini-top for now....or until is blows away on the highway.....then it's back to the drawing board.

I know I've been MIA (Mired in Activities) for a while now. So I offer this update:

As suggested earlier, an AFR is useful when tuning carbs.....so I ordered up an AEM AFR set-up. Given that I'll be doing lots of high-speed road tests, I figured I would install a set of mud flaps in an effort to keep some of those rocks out of my face .

Plus, I really didn't care for my 25-year old seats that have taken the shape of the last bum that sat in them....so I ordered up a set of Bomber Seats from Speedway Motors that came in 1/2" wider than advertised. So after beating on them for a couple of days. I finally managed to get them to fit into my tight cockpit.

I'll be fabricating a tush-cush to reduce numb-bum.

So tomorrow, I'll set my timing, and start swapping out jets.

Stay tuned......

Managed to get a few good runs in over the last couple of days.

The good news.....mud flaps work great and I'm no longer getting pelted with rocks!

The bad news......I was surprised to see that I'm not running lean at all. In fact, I'm running rich....very rich across the rev range. AFR gauge is showing between 10.5-12. Idle is about 11.5.

So, look's like I'll be acquiring some smaller idle and main jets.

Now, what's with the identification system that Weber uses for idle jets......F8, F11, F9?????

Can someone direct me to a chart that lists idle jets in order of fuel flow?

Cheers.

First things, what are your current jets, are you ABSOLUTELY SURE that your floats are set correctly, fuel pressure is no more than 3 PSI, and the float valves are not leaking?

True tuning cannot be done unless the above is correct.

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If I must be a one-man PC free zone, so be it!

About half way through the article. http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk ... webers.htm

You may also want to get a copy of this book. It's very good.
https://www.amazon.com/Weber-Carburetor ... 1855207591

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

The carbs were rebuilt a few weeks ago where the float levels were adjusted, and float valves replaced. The fuel pump was factory installed 25-years ago, so I'm hoping they selected the appropriate pressure rating.

I also replaced the OEM carb/manifold gasket with 'Misab' sandwich plates.

Current carb jets are:

Idle: F9/.45
Main: 1.15
Main Air Bleed: 2.00
Emulsion tube: F11
Accel: .40
Chokes: 30mm

Engine displacement: 1600cc