Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
The early style rod type bonnet support is simple to make with a vice and hammer, using a 1/4 or 5/16 inch rod and some hardware from Home Depot then just buy a new replacement rubber clip to stow it. Both styles are available new.
O, that should be plenty easy. Thanks for the measurements.
rx7locost wrote:
The missing ID on the engine is likely from hot tanking the engine during a rebuild sometime in the past. A common problem where the machinist doesn't remove the aluminum tag. If so, I would question whether yours is the engine that came with that car or not. It could be and just as likely that it isn't. I don't know how to tell the various models from the outside of the engine. In my MGA engine, a 3 main MOWOG "B" series engine, same family engine as the MGB, there were ID/date stamps in the mating surface of the block where the oil pan seals. if I remember correctly that is.
"if so Moss says the code should be something like 18GF/WE/H101." It should read 18GF/RWe/H (or L)xxxxx. The R indicates the overdrive and the H/L indicates high or low compression engines.
BTW, the engine number prefix is not just the engine, but also includes the trans that went with it and what type of emissions were included.
More on block issue, I tried to date the block but mine doesn't have a date clock that I could find. The PO said that when he talked to the original owners wife and a long time friend, the head had been rebuilt recently (paperwork to prove it) but the block is original as much as they knew. I bet you are correct about hot tanking though, with the missing ID plate and the compression numbers being as good as they are, I bet the block had been rebuilt in the 90's when they did the shoddy paint and bodywork. Fun fact: Rust-Oleum Shell White perfectly color matches the car.
Also, this car has an original dealer installed air conditioner compressor. I plan to remove it along with the smog pump. Anybody in search of one for their project? I just see it as a horse power thief. There my be an evaporator under the dash somewhere as well but I haven't looked that hard.
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Sweet!
I guess this is a hot stall condition? I’d check the tank for water by draining/siphoning off the bottom a quart or so into a clear container to look for separation from using ethanol. Check for any intake leaks and throttle shaft wear. Install the carb with the bowl forward of the barrels, raise the idle slightly, adjust the mixture hot, slightly rich of peak (with bowl forward), replace/clean the fuel filter, and check the fuel pressure is no more than 3.5psi or less than 3psi at the carb inlet. If you need to take the carb apart again, photo inventory the parts to keep in a file on your pc and make a word doc for all the part numbers and a dated log of problems and what you did to solve them. Most pics these days are high resolution so you can zoom in to see better than a magnifying glass. Retain the head shield between the intake and exhaust manifold. Eliminate as much rubber hose as possible for metal and nylon. Electronic ignition, inductive spiral core plug wires, modern (80s?) epoxy coil versus oil filled, etc.
I mention the carb orientation because I've seen them installed both ways and you didn't show an engine pic.
I turned the carb around last night an was able to take it for a spin. Fixed the issue completely an made it capable of idling smoother at lower rpms. I don't think I would have ever have caught that without your suggestion.