Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Sure Chuck. You made two general claims as fact that are not true for everybody:
1) "If the outcome of leaf springs is not to your liking, the job to fix it again is just as large."
2) "Without heat treating, bending leaf springs in a press is not a long term solution, they will bend further sooner than later."
1A) It’s not a light switch. Aspects can be adjusted like any suspension. The only difference in geometry is the front eye being slightly further forward and the leafs are wider. The rate is adjustable. The torque reaction is adjustable.
2A) The difference seems to be that I have experience with re-arcing but your argument is based on an opinion poll that was inconclusive. It sounds like everyone you read about had a different experience, which should tell you that the details are important. Not all leafs are the same in alloy, temper, or have design elements that ensure long life by preventing fatigue failure. Was the arc increased or decreased? Was it a little or a lot? The tension side is sometimes shot peened to improve durability. Heavy damping or riding around on blown shocks? Off-roading or Sunday driver? Generalization doesn’t work. Too many variables.
I’m not convinced a de-arc would be necessary when using the jeep leafs, just fewer leafs for the jeep stack to bend the same distance or less than normal with a lighter load.
Steve, for the sake of discussion, the front eye should be an inch or more lower than the rear eye. This reduces roll steer toe-out of the outside wheel and lowers the roll center.
If you were to hook up springs to the points right now that would be true. The front are lower by a few inches. I never measured it but they have to be 5 inches lower at least