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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 22, 2023, 12:27 pm 
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Whatever you choose to do, once the frame is in place, the notchy transition can be radiused with a few pieces of sheet metal. This shows how I addressed it on my "Book" frame.


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PostPosted: January 27, 2023, 12:07 pm 
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Wow, that is a great idea. Thanks
Right now, I have tilted that angle a bit and added an extra angle tube to reinforce that. I did what Miatav8 suggested.
I'm just trying to think ahead, how I will contour the aluminum sheet over that curved surface?
But I like the idea to add that curvature. I will do that, after making a wheel mock up, to see how it will look like.

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PostPosted: February 2, 2023, 8:49 pm 
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I really like the car you are designing yours similar to. Do you happen to know what it's called or any more pictures of it? I'd especially like to see the front end.

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PostPosted: February 3, 2023, 10:14 am 
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CodySimonson wrote:
I really like the car you are designing yours similar to. Do you happen to know what it's called or any more pictures of it? I'd especially like to see the front end.

Donkervoort
Some examples here: https://www.netcarshow.com/donkervoort/

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PostPosted: February 3, 2023, 12:37 pm 
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I don't know anything about it, I just found these pictures on the net, and I fell in love with the car.
I will have to find that windshield somewhere, but it won't be easy.
Here is a picture with the front.
Also I'm thinking if it would be a good idea to make a lowered floor, to sit lower, like the Caterhams have.
My engine/trans sticks out 1" below the frame anyway.


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PostPosted: February 4, 2023, 12:00 pm 
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That is an interesting sevenesque car. I have a bunch of photos of it too. It's made in France.

As to the windshield, that could be a challenge. For a variety of reasons others have been on the same quest here. There are shops that will do custom windshields from scratch, but the cost is enormous and it's primarily done for manufacturers design studios and their prototypes.

The two most common Locost solutions have been: 1) use and existing car windshield (e.g. MGB or VW); or 2) use a small boat windshield from the 50's-70's era.

A third solution might me buy one from that French company we're discussing. I have no idea how to contact them, however.

Also, none of the ready-made scuttles I've ever seen are created for anything other than a flat windshield, so be prepared to build your own.

None of the above means it can't be done of course. So, good luck to you.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2023, 2:12 pm 
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There's a guy and his son on YouTube that 3d printed body panels and made a space frame in the shape of an Aventador. The used a cut down Chrysler Town and country windshield glued to a steel frame. With enough patience you could form aluminum c channel to go around a cut down windshield. Or if you build a roll cage in you could design it to sit on a sheet metal frame within the front hoop.

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PostPosted: February 5, 2023, 1:52 am 
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The VW Super Beetle glass is way to tall, but maybe it can be cut down. I also need to measure one to see the width, if it is even good for my car.
Also with a lower windshield I'm considering lowering the floor, maybe an inch(Caterham style). Do I really need that though? I'm 5'10".
rx7locost, what is the radius of that added part? I will make that myself, I like how it looks. I have added another steeper angled tube, just to add rigidity to that point, since I won't have that traditional roll bar. I will have those two round roll bars.
Got lucky with an NC MX5 LSD. Got one from the bay, for $312(!). Did some investigation with the VIN# and found out, that it is an LSD. The seller did not know that.
Got some rear suspension(all the control arms(2x5 pieces !) and the knuckles, spindles w/discs for $217(!). Two of the control arms(tie rods) were bent though. $40 each new takes care of that.
I did not want to bend them back, and take a risk on them. I don't have anything to heat them up.
I just need the two calipers, sway bar with the links, two half shafts and the rear end is done.
I just have to figure out, how to line it up to the frame.
The wheel radius is 12.84"(25.68" is a 17" wheel/tire= 245/45R17) minus the ground clearance right?
Planning to have a 6.5" ground clearance, for street use. 11.84"- 6.5"= 6.34". So from the bottom of the chassis 6.34" up, right?
I assume that the crossmember has to be leveled to the floor.

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PostPosted: February 5, 2023, 11:39 am 
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tibimakai wrote:
....
Also with a lower windshield I'm considering lowering the floor, maybe an inch(Caterham style). Do I really need that though? I'm 5'10".
rx7locost, what is the radius of that added part? I will make that myself, I like how it looks. I have added another steeper angled tube, just to add rigidity to that point, since I won't have that traditional roll bar. I will have those two round roll bars.
........



Personally, I would be worried about lowering the floor. I think some amount of protection is provided by the frame itself. Having my bottom lower than that protection was just a bit too much risk. That, and I couldn't lower it any further, since I was somewhere around 4-1/2" ground clearance to start with.

As for the radius, I don't know what is was. I started with the rear fender and simply drew on the metal to create that radius. You can easily tac-weld a piece to the frame, draw the radius on the plate and then remove it. Cut to the line. Then replicate that piece 3 more times. Easy-peasy process for a locoster. You could also create the radius with CAD too. (Cardboard Aided Design) and duct tape. I tried to center it all on the wheel rear's center and added some DIY vinyl beading.


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Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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PostPosted: February 5, 2023, 8:02 pm 
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Thanks for that.
I have just looked up Kinetic fenders, and it seems like they are 30". So I have my answer.
The fender price is per fender, or for a pair?

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PostPosted: February 27, 2023, 11:31 pm 
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Truly , the Donk is a beautiful thing to behold…..You are free to build this any way you like. But it seems to me, without drawing a side view to scale you may not appreciate the ultimate proportions. It would help you visualize the rear deck height and any slope or angle, length towards the rear , etc if you would go so far with your build that you have your suspension and wheels installed first. This will have its own set of limitations. Then you can position the fenders to clear and any mocking up of the rear from that point will give you a much better idea of how these shapes will look.
A few scaled drawings in various configurations will take less time and effort to test things out than continually cutting tacking removing reworking in steel. A lot of Loti sides have a curve at the shoulder that lines up with the top of the rear fender or a little above, I think this adds to the tidiness or sleekness of the design. It also follows in the character when the back panel is sloped enough and has a jaunty little kick up along the bottom. They always seem to look better with as small of an overhang front and rear as you can manage. We’re all juggling these compromises of packaging around the car’s components and the desired proportions.
I think you’re doing a lot of good planning and putting in the forethought so you end up with what really looks good and works well. Keep up the good work, keep those cards and letters coming. Cheers, Skidzzz

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PostPosted: February 28, 2023, 12:06 am 
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Thank you for all that.
I'm mocking up the shape of the car, without it, I had no idea how it would look at the end.
I have started to realize, why the rear end is so boxy, for the other builder(found another aussie on Facebook, with very similar build).
There is no space left for the gas tank, behind the crossmember.

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PostPosted: February 28, 2023, 9:47 am 
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In the beginning, I experimented with using the Miata rear subframe as it is really nice, well engineered and quite stout. But for me, it seemed to be too heavy and occupied a lot of space in the rear compartment, not to mention the mass of other steel to attach it to the svelte tube chassis. This also moved the centerline of the rear wheels further rearward than I wanted.
What I did was place the wheel uprights, wheels, tires, Kinetic’s fenders, and diff where I thought it seemed right in relationship to the firewall and seats, then imitated the mounting points for the differential, sorted the control arm geometry using drawings and CAD (cardboard assisted design modeling) for determining the desired suspension mounting points, shock mounts, anti-roll bar, etc. Then finished building out the “subframe” structure to carry and support all these points. This probably saved 50 pounds (weight, not sterling).
Mind you, there was some drawing, cutting, welding, cutting out, moving, more of the same a few times to get it in its best configuration for everything. The only real difference is that my NB Miata diff is resting in cups versus hanging on the studs of the subframe, so it is removable from the top. I’ll try to learn how to post some pics.
I think this allowed me more freedom to place other components, gas tank, etc and enables me to keep the rear frame as compact ( or as long, tall, short , etc) as I desire. I also maximized my gas tank volume and shape by having one fabricated for me (Boyd Welding in FL) to my dimensions. Easy peasy.
Everyone has their own creative path, that’s one beauty of this kind of build. Cheers, Skidzzz

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PostPosted: February 28, 2023, 11:53 am 
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I agree with skidzzz . My build was RX7 based. The entire rear geometry was scrapped with a roll-your-own version in a small, book chassis. Tubes were cut out and tubes were added. It is only steel tubing. Nothing sacred so long as it is done with some thought. From what I have seen done since I built mine 15 years ago, the Miata parts fit so much better and easier than the RX7. I would not attempt to use the Miata subframe. But people do what they want to do. Every option has its own difficulties. You have found some of the ones created by using the Miata subframe. If you are stumped with the aesthetics of the car with the subframe, and cannot find a suitable solution to you, then perhaps you should reconsider the use of that part.

This is the change I made to the book frame.


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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: February 28, 2023, 12:12 pm 
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skidzzz wrote:
Truly , the Donk is a beautiful thing to behold…..You are free to build this any way you like. But it seems to me, without drawing a side view to scale you may not appreciate the ultimate proportions. It would help you visualize the rear deck height and any slope or angle, length towards the rear , etc if you would go so far with your build that you have your suspension and wheels installed first. This will have its own set of limitations. Then you can position the fenders to clear and any mocking up of the rear from that point will give you a much better idea of how these shapes will look.
A few scaled drawings in various configurations will take less time and effort to test things out than continually cutting tacking removing reworking in steel. A lot of Loti sides have a curve at the shoulder that lines up with the top of the rear fender or a little above, I think this adds to the tidiness or sleekness of the design. It also follows in the character when the back panel is sloped enough and has a jaunty little kick up along the bottom. They always seem to look better with as small of an overhang front and rear as you can manage. We’re all juggling these compromises of packaging around the car’s components and the desired proportions.
I think you’re doing a lot of good planning and putting in the forethought so you end up with what really looks good and works well.


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