So you want to use a Duratec/MZR?

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

The fuel pressure varies with ecu demands. Some ford system pumps are pulse width modulated and some are switched off and on (like a fuel injector duty cycle) from a control module that receives demands from the ecu. There are other sensors as well when using the oem system. Simpler is often better for practical reasons.

I like the specs on your linked pump but it is about 3x what it should cost. An inline replacement pump for a 90s ford truck should be plenty but inline pumps can starve for fuel and fail early. There are many discussions about pumps and surge tanks. In tank is better and worth the extra effort imho.

Since this will be tuned with the ms, the fpr location before or after is not critical. It just needs to be near the rail.

TBI, I don't know enough about the NC system to answer that. I'm old and like old things. Did I mention I love carbs? Seriously though, I would suggest a used, mazda service manual for an NC miata but I guess they don't print them anymore. Should be a disc or something similar to buy online.

[RTz]

are returnless systems more comon on high pressure designs? The Duratec is using 55psi on a return less system.

The point of return-less is lower evaporative emissions (by keeping the fuel cooler) and that only works if you're able to modulate the pump. 55psi is not necessarily "high pressure". Traditionally multiport injected engines run between 40 and 60 psi, with 45-ish being very common. Manufactures have used both return and return-less at those pressures. Unless you can modulate the pump there is no real performance advantage to return-less. Personally, I prefer a return style system as it helps with hot starts. If I was running a ragged edge turbo car I would care more about cooler fuel.

…my initial thought was a 60gph 60psi inline pump close to the sump. meeting engine demand for pressure with plenty of flow overhead.

A couple things to keep in mind with oversized pumps (with return systems):
The regulator needs to be sized big enough to bypass any and all overhead fuel
The more overhead you have, the more fuel the pump pressurizes and moves, the more heat gets added to the bulk fuel.

[tibimakai]

Miatav8, you were talking about this factory exhaust ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355772584472?f ... R7qk5I_-Yw

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

No, the Ranger 02-11. Can be smoothed with a carbide rotary file in a drill to look like a header.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285847024067?f ... R_zM7qv-Yw

[tibimakai]

What you guys use for the ignition system, Focus coils and wires or smart coils(3 prong) on plugs?
I'm planning to use a Speeduino, and I'm not sure which way should I go?

Also, anybody has a proven cooling system schematic with integrated heater?
Concerns: where in the cooling system to connect the expansion tank, this tank should have one hose running to it, or it should have an in and out hose?
Found this pdf, what you guys think, it should work correctly?

[ianrobb]

Has anyone made a comprehensive Duratec/MZR guide, listing all the year ranges, models, power output and compatibility? I know that sounds like more than an afternoons work, but some people enjoy doing those things in their spare time.

I was going to use a K20/Miata trans, but I didn't realize how expensive that would be just to install it in the car, much less driving. The 2.3 Duratec looks pretty appealing. My ultimate goal is 200WHP NA, and I feel I could get close to that with a 2.3/2.5 frankenstein. I think I'll just start with a lower HP 2.3 anyway, and build the spicy engine later.

[tibimakai]

I have a 2016 2.5 Fusion engine(not the hybrid), that has a flat oil pan. Earlier engines have a much "deeper" pan.
I have picked up from LKQ with 49k miles, a 2016 engine for $348.

[ianrobb]

I have a 2016 2.5 Fusion engine(not the hybrid), that has a flat oil pan. Earlier engines have a much "deeper" pan.

Do you lose much oil capacity with the shallow pan?

[tibimakai]

I'm still building my car, it is not ready to turn it on yet, but the oil pan is the factory Ford pan.
Picture is from Google, not my engine, but it is the same.

[Mr Project]

I've been running a Duratec 2.5 (hybrid variant) for a few years now. A few things I learned along the way about oil pans:

I found that the 'flat' oil pan was basically exactly the size of the balance shaft assembly. And in my case, at my preferred mounting height, there was not enough ground clearance to feel comfortable. I also was not comfortable at all with the pickup tube assembly when used in a RWD configuration. I felt like the oil would slosh rearward away from the now-side-mounted pickup tube and starve the pump. I never actually tried it.

I also tried the stock Ford Ranger Duratec oil pan (and associated pickup tube). It's a nice piece and I think it was like $45 brand new on ebay, which for a huge piece of cast and machined aluminum, seems like a steal. From memory it did not have space for the balance shaft, and it's a rear sump setup. If you had any steering gear or other equipment you need clearance for, it might be a good option. However, the 'low' portion of the pan is even lower than the 'flat' pan by a bit. Maybe 2-3 inches? I liked it, but there was so little ground clearance on my car that I was grinding the bottom of the oil pan off on the little crown of the lane on a smooth road. Oil pan life expectancy was less than 10 miles. Not a great cost per mile.

I could have raised up the ride height of the car, but what fun would that be?

So instead I spent big money (~$800US during the very early days of COVID) on a Raceline wet-sump low clearance oil pan straight from what the UK Caterham race guys use. It's a really, really nice piece, as you would hope for the price. I still have a decent amount of oil capacity, but at the same time I did a remote-mount oil filter because my chassis had some bracing right where the stock Duratec oil filter goes, and I wanted to keep that. I did some cheap AN10 lines, a $15 remote filter housing from a small-block-chevy race car setup, and an adapter plate on the motor. After a few track days, I also added a big air-liquid oil cooler up in front of the radiator, based on absolutely no data at all. It just seemed like a good idea. I figure with all of the lines, the huge SBC filter, and the large cooler, I have quite a bit of capacity even with the shallow pan. When I do an oil change I put 5-6 quarts in, and I know it's not ALL getting out of the system with the way I have the lines routed.

The Raceline pan is essentially the shallowest possible wet sump pan. If you look at the way the transmission mounts to the engine, the bottom transmission ears are just slightly lower than the bottom of the oil pan. A true dry sump could give you more clearance, but the transmission would be lower than the dry sump anyway, so I'm not sure that a true dry sump would be worth the cost and complexity. It wasn't for me.

Because the oil pan is the most expensive part of the car, I also built a giant steel skid plate that protects everything under the engine. It's like 30+ lbs and scrapes nicely on speed bumps, which I love because it's sacrificing the correct part of the car. It's also a great way to jack up the front of the car. Or maybe the whole car, since it's easily the strongest and heaviest part of the chassis.

If I get to where I can post pictures, I'll share some pictures of it later. But my recommendation on the cheap is a ranger pan, as long as you can make the ground clearance you need. I did not try an NC MZR oil pan, at the time they were more $$ than I felt was reasonable (like $200-300 if I recall correctly?) If you can't use the Ranger pan, prepare to spend money.

[tibimakai]

Nobody has any input about the cooling system for a Duratec that works?
I'm using a Ranger aluminum manifold from the rear of the engine with the addition of the factory steel tube, that goes all the way to the front of the engine.
I had to cut and reweld it for clearance.
The bypass hose stays as is from the factory.
I have an Ebay radiator, that has a fitting at the cap for an expansion header tank.
I'm planning to use one of those cheap aluminum header tanks from Amazon, but I'm not sure if it is the correct one for this application.
I'm planning on adding a heater as well. I know is not really needed for LA, but I may drive to work early in the morning and it could be a bit to cool.
I'm thinking about using the SBD schematics above. What you guys think that seems like a good idea?
Also where can I connect everything?
Mostly I'm confused with the header tank and the heater connection.
Any help would be appreciated.

Tibor

P.S. I made brackets and installed MX5 coil on plugs with 3 pins.

[LoadOS]

Hi, I'm too lazy to read through all 17 pages.

I was intrigued by reading about Eco-Boost 2.0 swaps with $600 junkyard engines and thought "that would be a hell of an engine for a Locost".

I'm wondering if a Getrag MT-82 will bolt up to the 2.0 block. Ford seems to use that behind the 2.3 Eco-Boost in the Mustang. One thing I noticed is that the 5.0 version has taller and closer gear ratios for first and second gear. In a light weight car I'm thinking I might want the 5.0 spec transmission. I just haven't dived deep enough to know if I can mix and match a 2.0 with a 5.0 transmission.

For the rear end, I'm thinking of IRS using an Explorer Aluminum housing 8.8" center section. This seems to be a common upgrade that people do on BMW drift cars with big power engines. Does anyone have an idea of how to use one with a suspension that fits in a Locost?

I want a really bullet proof drivetrain so I can do silly stuff without breaking things and I want to use cheap and common parts because I'm cheap and common.

Is there any issue with a combination like this, or maybe buying a crashed mustang to get a 2.3 and MT-82 in one shot?

I'm thinking I'll probably want a dry sump system, hopefully the cheapest thing that works and gives good ground clearance.

I'm worried about the hood height too, I would like a classic 7 look without too much visual evidence of a turbo motor.

Am I on the right track or is my plan crap?

[stgdz]

Is the focus 2.5 and ranger 2.5 the same? Can I bolt a ranger transmission to it?

[ianrobb]

Is the focus 2.5 and ranger 2.5 the same? Can I bolt a ranger transmission to it?

The Focus never had a 2.5, only the 2.0 and 2.3(in the USA). However, the Focus 2004-on 2.0 and 2.3, and the 2001-12 Ranger 4 cylinder are all Duratecs, and the Ranger transmission should bolt up with their respective clutch, flywheel, and starter. I would go with the NC Miata transmission for better shifter placement.

[tibimakai]

Which muffler you guys are using/plan on using with Duratecs?
Street use, not for racing.
It looks like Caterhams have a pretty big muffler, I'm guessing there is a good reason for that.
I see quite few people on this forum complaining about loud exhausts, so I'm planning to get a big muffler.
Anybody has a fairly big one that it is not to loud?
Something like this, maybe?
AP Exhaust TruckEx Mufflers 4268
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-4268
Jones Exhaust SD726-4D
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326102133603
Dynomax Ultra Flo Welded Round Mufflers 17230
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk- ... jnEALw_wcB
MagnaFlow 12646
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe- ... WG6Uvnjv60