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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 29, 2023, 12:25 am 
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Joined: September 30, 2020, 11:44 am
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Location: Eastern Oregon
No time like the present. I was debating making a separate topic, in a different area for the table build, but I figured I might as well start the build log. Hopefully this will help keep me accountable, and provide momentum.

A week or two ago I decided to start on the base build table. Seattletom graciously donated the build top a couple months ago, but I'm tired of working on projects on the floor. So out comes the free uni-strut and other bits and pieces from around my shop.

Attachment:
90 degree jig.png


A year or two ago my work was throwing out a large amount of uni-strut pieces. Each was about 5ft long, I think I got about 40 pieces. I built this 90 degree welding jig to join the pieces for various projects. So Far I've built a took cart, welding cart and an 8ft work bench.

Attachment:
Legs.png


I started off building four of these leg braces. 5.5 inches of clearance to the bottom rail, hopefully enough room to to get an engine jack under it, but realistically I'm going to be using my tractor for lifting heavy things. Since I have one of those but no engine jack.

Attachment:
Free Hardware.png


Work was also getting rid of about 30lbs of this hardware. Carriage bolts with washers and nuts. The carriage bolts limit my applications, but I happened to have these plates with the correct square holes from a previous project. I cut t@bs out of the plate to capture the bolts.

Attachment:
Partial T@Bs.png


Attachment:
Partial Assembly.png


Once I had the first two braces joined it was quick work to weld and assemble the rest. The reason I used t@bs instead of just welding the braces together is that I know I will be moving this table mid project.

Attachment:
Completed Table.png


Here is the completed table with seattletom's build top on it. His torsion box is stiff enough I definitely went overkill on the base. I also had some racks around from various restaurant equipment, those were close enough to the right size to utilize as shelving.

I thought about just making joining plates that I could use to join the uni-strut; heck, you can even buy the pre-made plates. If I had a CNC plasma table I think this would have been doable, but a welder is much quicker with limited tools. Also, purchasing the plates and joinery quickly becomes prohibitively expensive.

Welding this galvanized stuff is rough, lots of sparks and smoke, I did some research and found that the best route to keep from getting sick was to use a respirator, so I bought some nice pods for my 3M mask. Worked a treat, still made sure not to breath too deep.


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PostPosted: July 29, 2023, 10:53 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
It's a good start. Welcome!

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: July 29, 2023, 3:01 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Welcome to the site, you'll find a great bunch of builders here.

With your ability to repurpose items to make useful tools for yourself, you will have a lot of fun building a 7 as building jigs is part of the whole picture.

Frame looks good. May I suggest adding some angular strut to each end of your build table for added rigidity.

Ladies and Gentlemen, it looks like we have another build happening!

:cheers:

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: July 29, 2023, 9:28 pm 
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Joined: September 30, 2020, 11:44 am
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Location: Eastern Oregon
Thank you all, and cheers!

I hardly feel new here, as I've been lurking for the last two years. But I guess compared to most of the regulars two years is still "new".

Perry, my thought was that after attaching the tabletop to the frame I reduce most of that movement. But I will keep that in mind if I run into any issues. As of right now this thing is stout.

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PostPosted: August 17, 2023, 12:45 am 
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Location: Eastern Oregon
Finding A513 square tube has been a bit of a challenge. With local suppliers either refusing to order it for me, or having no idea what I'm talking about. I ended up finding a regional supplier over the boarder in Washington State. They not only knew what I wanted, but had it in stock. Even after the added tax and dollar per cut fee I had what I wanted and cheaper than the local supplier. Shout out to Pacific Steel if anyone is looking for a good steel source in the greater rocky mountain area.

Attachment:
Wheels and Metal.png


Just down the street from the metal supply was also the u-pull. I have had my eyes on these Grand Cherokee rims since I saw them in a parking lot a couple years ago. They had four in decent shape sans tires conveniently located about 20 feet from the cash register. Pretty good deal when I don't have to get out my own tools at the u-pull. These 16in wheels should be a bit of an upgrade over the tired and warped steel 14s that have been on the pickup since the 80's.

I was expecting that the rims would have had rubber on them, which could have been nice so I could use them to make the frame a roller, but I can always keep the old steelies around for the time being. Also means I have four less tires to worry about disposing.

Both stops took about 30 minutes together, I love it when things just work out.


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PostPosted: August 17, 2023, 10:32 am 
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Location: Oregon City, OR
Subscribed! :cheers:

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PostPosted: August 17, 2023, 11:18 am 
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Location: San Dimas, CA
Yes, anther builder. I have started a year ago, so I'm new as well. I haven't started a thread though, but I have started a few threads asking questions. If is a slow forum though.
I'm waiting for somebody to answer my questions for the front suspension.
Watch out for buying new wheels and tires so early. I had this situation recently, that when I purchased the spindles(NC MX-5), the scrub radius was more than -1". I had to switch spindles.
If I was doing the other way around, I could have went with a different offset wheels/tire width and all would have been fine.

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PostPosted: August 17, 2023, 1:02 pm 
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Logan,

Congratulations on getting your build underway! And glad and the tabletop is being used for another build. The burn marks and tube shadows look familiar. :D

A good source of metal tubing, etc. is Online Metals https://www.onlinemetals.com/ They've recently moved their Seattle warehouse to Portland and only have a will call station up here now.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: August 17, 2023, 11:40 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
seattletom wrote:
The burn marks and tube shadows look familiar.
That reminds me of reading up on the phenomenon of a nuclear shadow https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_Shadow_Etched_in_Stone

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: August 18, 2023, 5:21 am 
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Location: Eastern Oregon
tibimakai wrote:
... Watch out for buying new wheels and tires so early. I had this situation recently, that when I purchased the spindles(NC MX-5), the scrub radius was more than -1". I had to switch spindles.
If I was doing the other way around, I could have went with a different offset wheels/tire width and all would have been fine.


This is good advice, I've also heard to start at your tires and build in. I've already been planning the dimensions and have some pretty good ideas of what goes where. As I move forward I double check measurements and correct as I go.

seattletom wrote:
...The burn marks and tube shadows look familiar. :D

A good source of metal tubing, etc. is Online Metals https://www.onlinemetals.com/ They've recently moved their Seattle warehouse to Portland and only have a will call station up here now.


I should even be able to reuse your center line!

Pacific Steel is about 30% - 40% less than onlinemetals.com Just as an fyi.

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PostPosted: August 18, 2023, 5:26 am 
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Location: Eastern Oregon
Rolled "Pinkerton" out of the bushes today. He was parked about three years ago for a bad slave cylinder, and then stayed parked due to a bad fuel pump/carb issues. For the last few functional years he was largely used as a loaner. Pretty sure that if the insurance company was concerned he's been totaled more than once.

This was my Grandpas pickup, and I still have memories of him taking me and my cousins through the car-wash under the canopy. After he passed it became the high-school learner car, and when my younger sister didn't want it, I bought it from the family for $500. I've turned over both 100k and 200k on it. Have a lot of my own memories in there too. Figured that using him as the donor would give it a second life, hopefully be able to pass on to my kids someday.

Attachment:
Pinkerton.png


I will use the bed as an overland trailer, keeping the axle underneath for the time being. After all, it's pretty narrow for the use of any wider tire. The engine, although it only has 250k on it will be rebuilt. A good friends dad runs the shop at the local state pen, they will rebuild it for $800.

Also, always make sure you're prepared when you start digging into rigs that have been sitting. I took a wasp to the forehead before I located their nest and dispatched them with this less than reassuring can of wasp spray.

Attachment:
Wasp Spray.png


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PostPosted: August 18, 2023, 9:10 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
That's a great history on the donor. Like you said, you're giving a second, useful life. Very cool.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 19, 2023, 3:05 pm 
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Holding off on tires can be useful. I bought tires and rims up front and then couldn't get my string computer to 'give' me acceptable characteristics at that rolling radius with my donor suspension. I had to spring for a second set of lower profile (smaller rolling radius) tires to get things to work. Of course, it's all theoretical ...

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601


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PostPosted: August 21, 2023, 11:00 am 
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What a perfect donor for you. :cheers:

Definitely, wait for the end for new tires. You never know how long the built will take. You would end up buying new tires twice. My MG build has 20+ (possibly 30?) year old tires. Old enough that the tires only have 3-digit year codes. Good enough for the shop until it is ready for the road.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: August 26, 2023, 12:02 am 
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Location: Eastern Oregon
I picked up a used mustang axle yesterday. Seems to be in pretty good shape, everything spins freely and came with rotors and calipers. The only issue is that it's almost 3 inches wider than the info that I had found online. Not the end of the world, I'll be adjusting the frame accordingly. We'll end up with a custom +402, But I don't think anyone is going to complain about a little extra room in the cockpit.

Attachment:
Axle.png


I think I will utilize some longer link bars since even after going with a wider frame I will still have the clearance to run the links down the side of the chassis.

And I started cutting metal today!

Attachment:
Bottom Frame.png


I have the main pieces for the bottom in place, will probably get around to tacking them tomorrow. All I have for cutting is an abrasive chop saw and a couple angle grinders, so I've been cutting the bars to max length and then trimming the angles with the skinny disc. I may be losing a little bit of material for each angled cut, but I doubt it's enough that I'll need to buy more steel.

Last night I had some helpers while I leveled out the table.

Attachment:
Helpers.png


With all the bees and wasps around, I'm gonna have to paint this car yellow.


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